Also this helps make up for the many dumplings and spare ribs and bao that went into the piehole at Hei La Moon this weekend. Very good dim sum, of about equivalent quality to China Pearl, but with two notable differences: 1) no black sesame jelly roll that I could find, and 2) the best damn turnip cake I have ever eaten, perfectly flavored and griddle fried fresh to order.

UPDATE: on a second visit, I scored some black sesame jelly roll from one of the first carts that came around at 11am — by the time we left an hour or so later it was all gone. So get ‘em early, y’all. They’ll keep on the table for you.

Notwithstanding, we’ve been going there a few times a year now for several years, and this last visit, we realized: all those problems have gone. There’s a new cocktail menu, still a little oblique but at least you know whether you’ll get gin or whisky or fruit or bitters. Nothing that arrived was oversalted, and the scallops in spicy roast corn was truly one of the best things I’ve ever eaten there, perfectly balanced, creamy, spicy, savory and light.

So yay — a place we liked a lot before has a lot more to like now.