While on a rampage at the den of temptation known as the Whole Foods Cheese Department, I acquired a hunk of sheep’s-milk cheese from France: Etorki. It’s just wonderful: it’s creamy, yet nutty and slightly pungent and ever so faintly sheepy. Mild-cheese lovers like it, stinky-cheese lovers like it, and it’s a perfect eating cheese. Good on bread or plain.

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